Cartier’s Royal Legacy on Display: Patiala Necklace and Rare Gems Dazzle at V&A Exhibition

The Victoria and Albert Museum has unveiled a landmark retrospective titled Cartier: Icons of Style, showcasing over 350 of the maison’s most iconic creations, including the legendary Patiala necklace and a 152-carat sapphire centerpiece. The exhibition, which opened to sold-out crowds, traces Cartier’s evolution from a Parisian family business to a global symbol of luxury and craftsmanship.

Among the most talked-about pieces is the Patiala necklace, originally commissioned in 1928 by Maharaja Bhupinder Singh of Patiala. Once lost and later restored by Cartier between 1999 and 2002, the necklace features a dazzling array of diamonds, topaz, synthetic rubies, and smoky quartz set in platinum. Its reappearance has drawn significant attention, symbolizing the brand’s deep historical ties with Indian royalty.

Another highlight is a 152-carat sapphire, part of a collection that includes royal heirlooms such as Princess Margaret’s rose-shaped brooch and an aquamarine-and-diamond tiara on loan from Princess Anne. These pieces are displayed in immersive settings designed by architect Asif Khan, who used color gradients to evoke the twilight of Windsor and the sunset of Delhi, reflecting Cartier’s global inspirations.

Curated by Helen Molesworth and Rachel Garrahan, the exhibition explores Cartier’s signature styles—from the romantic “Garland Style” to bold Art Deco designs—and its cross-cultural influences, including Indo-Persian, Chinese, and Egyptian motifs. The display also features the V&A’s own Manchester tiara and a newly acquired Islamic-inspired diamond plaque brooch, exhibited for the first time.

The retrospective not only celebrates Cartier’s artistic legacy but also its enduring relationship with royalty, celebrities, and collectors across continents. It runs through the end of the year and is expected to draw record attendance, reaffirming Cartier’s place at the pinnacle of haute joaillerie.